Kutaisi: Georgia’s Ancient Capital with a Lazy, Soviet Soul
Kutaisi, Georgia’s third-largest city, is a charming mix of 2,500-year-old history, Soviet decay, and laid-back provincial vibes. Nestled along the Rioni River, it’s the gateway to Imereti’s caves, canyons, and UNESCO-listed monasteries—but with none of Tbilisi’s rush.
Key Facts
Population: ~135,000 (feels smaller).
Language: Georgian (Russian widely understood).
Vibe: Sleepy, budget-friendly, and stubbornly authentic.
Claim to Fame: Former capital of Colchis (Golden Fleece legends) and seat of Georgia’s Parliament (2012-2018).
Top Attractions
1. UNESCO Wonders
Gelati Monastery (12th century) – Georgia’s medieval Harvard (frescoes, tombs of kings).
Bagrati Cathedral (11th century) – Ruined symbol of unity (rebuilt controversially).
2. Soviet Oddities & Quirks
Kutaisi Central Market – Soviet-era time capsule (try churchkhela and Imeretian cheese).
Tskaltubo Spa Town – Abandoned Stalin-era sanatoriums (like a communist horror film set).
Kutaisi’s Brutalist Architecture – Parliament building (now empty) and Colchis Fountain.
3. Natural Adventures
Prometheus Cave – Otherworldly stalactites + underground boat ride.
Sataplia Nature Reserve – Dinosaur footprints and a glass skywalk.
Okatse Canyon – Suspended walkway over a 140m-deep gorge.
4. Hidden Gems
Motsameta Monastery – Cliff-top shrine with mummified martyrs.
Kutaisi Synagogue – Last remnant of a once-thriving Jewish community.
Green Bazaar – Where locals shop (smell the spices, drink cheap wine).
Kutaisi’s Food & Drink Scene
Must-Try Dishes:
Imeretian Khachapuri (Less buttery, more cheese-packed than Adjarian).
Pkhali (Spinach/walnut paste balls).
Kupati (Spicy sausage with pomegranate).
Drink Like a Local:
Imeretian Wine – Tsitska-Tsolikouri (crisp whites).
Chacha – The fiercer, the better.
Best Cafes:
Café FanFan – Cozy, French-inspired.
Soviet-style canteens – For lobio (bean stew) and mchadi (cornbread).
Day Trips from Kutaisi
Under 1 hour:
Tskaltubo (Abandoned spas + Stalin’s private pool).
Geguti Palace (12th-century royal ruins).
1-2 hours:
Martvili Canyon (Turquoise waterfalls).
Vani (Ancient Colchian archaeological site).
Getting Around
Taxis: Cheap (use Bolt).
Walking: The center is compact.
Marshrutkas: For caves/canyons (leave from Kutaisi Bus Station).
Best Time to Visit
Spring/Autumn – Mild weather, green landscapes.
Summer – Hot but great for caves.
Winter – Quiet, misty, and atmospheric.
Insider Tips
Stay Near the Center – The outskirts are bleak.
Hire a Driver for Day Trips – Public transport to caves is unreliable.
Skip the "Kutaisi Tourists" – Gelati is worth it, but explore beyond.
Kutaisi is Georgia’s underrated heartland—where you can roam dinosaur-era caves, drink wine in Stalin’s abandoned spa, and chat with old men playing nardi (backgammon) in the park. It’s not glamorous, but it’s real.
